Thanks you for sharing

btw. yesterday i released my depth of field calculator: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com…

I'll be more than happy to get feedback.

For me the best lens you could buy for this camera is the Nikon 70-200mm f/4G ED VR Nikkor Zoom Lens.

It's a Nikon lens built for a Nikon camera and is:

•Lightweight and portable at just 29.3 oz and a mere 7.0-in. long
•Optimized for capturing high-quality stills and HD videos on both FX- and DX-format cameras
•Nikon's high-performance f/4 fixed aperture zoom lens

If you want more information there are 34 owner reviews on this website for the USA http://amzn.to/14IigCR or here for the UK http://amzn.to/11Sa51k

If this lens is not for you then there are more lens options here for the USA http://amzn.to/11QMU8W or here for the UK http://amzn.to/10nLEG6 along with owner reviews.

The Nikon 70-200mm f/4G ED VR Nikkor Zoom Lens is in stock at the moment, but I'm not sure if stocks will last for much longer at this great price – the price is heavily discounted on the UK site!

Good luck.

"shutter speed 50" does not mean 50 shutters per second. it means the shutter is open for 1/50 second per frame. so 25fps at shutter speed 1/50 means the shutter opens 25 times each second, and in that period, the shutter is open for half of the time (1/50 x 25 = 1/2.)

so the 180 degree filmlook guideline should be phrased "your shutter speed should be double the reciprocal of your frame rate." so if you shoot 60fps, your shutter speed should be 1/120 to maintain filmlook.

the portion about highspeed/slowmotion is confusing. it should state that high framerates should also follow the 180 degree guideline to maintain a filmlook, but at a certain point, decreasing shutter speeds stops being helpful and becomes more detrimental to exposure….think about shooting 1/1000 indoors at iso 100!!! that's what 500fps calls for. ouch. better off just to slow the framerate, blur the motion more, and let some light onto the sensor.

remember 1/50 shutter on video is the same as in still photos…so if you shoot a pic of a speeding train at 1/50 second, it's going to be blurry.

so to make the train less blurry, use the same tricks as in still photography (panning, fast shutter speed) and increase framerate. a train at 40m/h = ~58 ft/s, so if your camera was focused on a 1 ft section of passing train, for example, 60fps would capture every passing foot, but you would also need a fast shutter speed to freeze each frame.
i think nyquist would recommend 120fps at 1/250, but i would recommend zooming out, panning and trying 60fps at 1/125.

-engineering dropout

gas grills

What was also annoying was the fact that when I contacted him, his attitude about the excessive watermarking was kind of a, 'I want people to buy my software and I don't care if they can't tell if the software works, all I want is for them to buy it'. Needless to say, after testing and testing and testing image after image with not even ONE good result, I am soooo glad I didn't just spend the $40 on faith. I would have been severely disappointed and frustrated that I wasted my money on false promises.

Don't bother buying this software. It doesn't work.

Thanks for the help! I needed this!

Now that you touched the topic on tripods and how to hold the camera, I would like to hear your opinion on MONOPODS.

Regards, Javier

This was a great demonstration! Thanks so much for putting it together.

I do recommend that you have a rear lens cap available to put on your lens while it's sitting on your work table; otherwise, if dust falls onto the lens while you are working on the camera sensor, that dust goes right back into the mirror box of your camera when you remount the lens.

Have a great day!

But, if I hate to choose it would be the 6D because I have always been a Canon man although the new Nokon D800 is pretty awesome. Is it time to switch?

Looking for the best DSLR for video?