• White balance
• Light quality
• Exposure
• Aperture
• Shutter
• ISO
• Metering
• Equipment

All About Lighting is available for immediate download for only $9.99. For more information, please visir http://learningphotographyebooks.com

Features

GoPro Size Comparison

The GoPro HD Hero sports a 5 megapixel sensor mated to a super wide-angle lens with a fixed aperture of f/2.8. The lens also has a fixed focus so this isn’t really going to be a good replacement for a good point & shoot. The GoPro is designed to be used in situations that you wouldn’t put a regular camera. The camera body itself has no mounting points because it is generally used inside of the waterproof case that it comes with. There is also no viewfinder or LCD screen built-in as the camera is usually used unattended such as strapped to a motorcycle helmet or attached to the side of a car.

There are four still shooting settings that include:

• Single shot
• Three shot burst
• Countdown timer
• Timelapse mode

Camera Optics

• Lens Type: Fixed Focus (2ft/.6m – ∞), glass
• Aperture: f/2.8 (high performance in low-light situations)
• Angle of View: 170º ultra wide angle in WVGA, 720p, or 960p mode
• Angle of View: 127º wide angle in 1080p mode

GoPro Left Side View

GoPro Right Side View

GoPro Rear View

The first three options are pretty basic but the Timelapse feature requires a bit of explanation. In the settings you first set the time interval between each shot. When you press the shutter to take a picture, the camera will keep firing shots off, pausing between each shot based on your setting, until you stop the process, the SD card becomes full, or the battery dies.

As I mentioned earlier, the GoPro HD Hero comes with a waterproof case that is rated for up to 60 meters. With this much protection, there aren’t many places that you can’t find a use for the GoPro.

The Bad News

Keep in mind that the GoPro is a specialty camera so while it excels in some areas, there are some gotchas to be aware of. I already mentioned the lack of a viewfinder although an optional one is available for $79. I highly recommend the viewfinder for navigating through the GoPro’s menus and for setting up shots. There is also no flash as the primary use is for shooting video. Out of the box there also isn’t any way to mount the camera to a tripod, for this you need an $8 tripod mount adapter.

There are only two buttons on the camera and a small LCD, combined they are used to change the plethora of setting options. Once you get the hang of it, changing the settings isn’t too difficult, but adding the LCDBak really makes using the GoPro much easier.

If you decide to buy a GoPro HD Hero you should start with a package containing a selection of mounting hardware such as the GoPro Motocycle Hero. The GoPro Motorcycle Hero will start you off with suction mount, helmet mount, and a handful of other parts. Add a bicycle mount and the tripod adapter and you will have a good starter kit.

Why use the GoPro for stills?

No viewfinder, no flash, tricky settings menus, so why would you want to use a GoPro for shooting stills? The main reason is that it is small and unobtrusive. You can easily put the camera in obscure locations and just let it shoot away. Think about putting the GoPro in the arch above a wedding ceremony for some unique angles. Your imagination is your only limitation as to what you can do.

But how good are the images?

The single most noticeable thing you will notice about the images is that the lens is a super wide-angle. I don’t mean just wide-angle, this is seriously a wide-angle, so wide that you get a bit of barrel distortion. Sometimes you want a mega wide-angle shot, other times you may not and you may need to do some lens correction on the images.

In the specs I mentioned that the camera has a fixed focus f/2.8 lens. An interesting note here is that Adobe Lightroom reports it as f/3.4. This is a pretty trivial difference, but something I would point out. Also, if you are looking at the EXIF data you will see that the shutter speed and ISO change from shot to shot. It appears that the GoPro tries to maintain a good exposure by adjusting the shutter speed as needed and then adjusting the ISO to keep the shutter speed from falling too low. Hopefully I can get some clarification on this from GoPro. A few other interesting tidbits are that Lightroom reports the focal length as 5mm (I did mention it was a WIDE angle).

Is a GoPro HD Hero right for you?

The GoPro HD Hero at $269 (Amazon) is more expensive than a good point & shoot camera and may even seem lighter on features. The important advantages have to do with the protective cover that waterproofs and protects the camera body from damage. The versatility of the mounting system allows you to use the camera in all kinds of unique situations from scuba diving to sky diving and pretty much anything in between.

These days I don’t leave my house without a GoPro HD Hero. From a quick snapshot when needed to recording the Camera Dojo GoCast series, the GoPro HD Hero is just fun. Sure, a focusable lens, adjustable focal length, and more control over exposure settings would be nice, having these limitations forces you to think about what you are shooting and how work with what you have.

In this post we have only talked about using the GoPro as a still camera, next week we will look at using the GoPro as a video camera.

Be sure and check out more information about GoPro and enter their daily contest for a chance to win everything they make.

Isn’t “Suck” a little harsh?

Actually, to say that the audio recording sucks is an understatement. My two-year old $600 Vixia palm sized camcorder does better audio than my 7D. So no, the poor audio recording is a major failure on the camera manufacturers part and can actually be fixed via firmware if they chose to. One thing that may surprise many people is that they get better sound from the on-board microphone than they get with a high-end studio microphone. No way, the cheap, tiny, built-in mic works better…how is that possible? The answer is the one thing that makes the on-board mic work “so so” and higher end microphones almost unusable is Automatic Gain Control (AGC). What AGC does is to monitor the audio stream and then boosts the audio signal to make sure it is picking up the audio. The reason this sort-of works on the built-in microphone is because of the ambient noise in most situations. With any ambient noise, the AGC will “hear” some noise and the AGC won’t kick in. With a really good microphone, you can get such a clean audio signal that there is no ambient sound which will send the AGC into overdrive, thus filling the audio stream with tons of noise as it tries to boost the signal.

All the camera manufacturers have to do is to allow the ability to disable AGC in the firmware or preferably have a setting option such as High, Medium, Low, Off. This would allow for selectable gain control depending on the situation and the microphone used. That’s it, a simple firmware change and there would be no need for this post. However…none of the DSLR manufacturers have seen fit to include this obvious setting.

Creating Non-Sucky Audio

There are several ways to get really clean audio and we will look at some of these options so you can decide if one of them is more suited for how you want to work.

Secondary Recording Device

From the dawn of time (or at least since video recording started) high-end video production has consisted of using separate devices for video and audio recording. Have you ever seen a clap board and wondered what it was for? A clap board is used by the editor to sync the audio and video since they are recorded on different devices. For cinema production, this is a tried and true process so moving to DSLRs does not affect their workflow at all. For budget filmmakers who have used camcorders, moving to separate audio and video tracks can be frustrating and difficult to sync up properly. Add to this that even a slight variance between the two devices and a long film clip can actually drift out of sync. One  of the most common secondary audio devices is the Zoom H4N. I actually have the older Zoom H4 which isn’t available anymore.
Pros: Excellent Audio
Cons:  More work in post, additional expense

AGC Disabling Mixer

For post production speed it is definitely better to have the audio and video already mixed together. This prevents and audio drifting and issues with syncing (until you start using multiple cameras anyway). One solution I have found is the JuicedLink DS214 Amp which features AGC disabling. The way the AGC disabling works is that the DS214 feeds a generated tone through one of the stereo channels while sending the microphone audio through the other channel. This tone sound essentially shuts down the AGC because it becomes overwhelmed with noise thus lowering the gain to the minimum and letting the camera record very clean audio. With the DS214 costing $144, this isn’t a cheap solution but it does do the trick and as soon as the firmware allows for true disabling of the AGC control, then you can disable this feature.
Pros: Allows variety of microphone gear to work well, less work in post
Cons: Only allows for single channel audio recording, additional expense

Magic Lantern Firmware Hack

While we wait for Canon and Nikon to come to their senses, the folks over at Magic Lantern have created a firmware add-on for some Canon cameras that adds a nice set of features including audio meters and the ability to disable the AGC function. The downside here is that the Magic Lantern firmware is not available for the Canon 7D yet or for Nikon cameras.
Pros: FREE!, True AGC disabling, Auto Meters
Cons: No 7D support, No Nikon support

Summary

If you are getting started with DSLR video, it is only a matter of time before you get frustrated with trying to get good, clean audio. Hopefully you will find one of these options to suite your needs and budget to help you get exactly what you are trying to get.

ISO and Aperture

The good news is that two out of three aint bad. What I mean by this is that ISO and Aperture affect video exactly the same way that they affect stills. ISO will make the sensor more sensitive to light so just like stills, you can increase the light into the camera by increasing the ISO setting which, just like stills, will add digital noise to the image.

Just like still images, Aperture will open or close the lens’ aperture diaphragm to allow more or less light into the camera which will affect the depth of field.

So long as you already have a good handle on ISO and Aperture, the same principles apply to both stills and video so you already well on your way.

Shutter Speed

With stills, shutter speed is fairly simple to understand, a longer shutter will allow more light but may add motion blur while a fast shutter speed can freeze motion but cuts down on the amount of light entering the camera. The confusing part is how this affects video. Many new video DSLR owners simply think this affects only the light since the frames are already moving. The reality is that the shutter speed can have a significant impact on the video image and most of the articles on the internet are painfully difficult to understand.

The traditional standard for video is 24p (which is actually 23.976 frames per second) which is very pleasing to the eye and is pretty much the standard for camcorders and DSLR video recording (much more on this is available on Wikipedia).

To achieve a film look (which has just enough motion blur between frames to look natural without being “smeary”) you need to follow the 180 degree rule which, simply put, says that your shutter speed should be double the frame rate. This is one of those times when I want to say “don’t worry about what it means, just go with it” as the technical explanation is quite…well…technical. Tyler Ginter did a really good job explaining the technical side of this on his blog post 180 Degree Shutter – Learn It, Live It, Love It.

While I am not going to try to explain the whole 180 degree shutter concept, I will instead just jump into what it really means to you and your video.

Since we already know that when we are shooting stills with action, a slow shutter speed will have motion blur and a fast shutter speed will freeze action. When we translate this concept to video, a slow shutter speed will create a smeared look to the video. If the shutter is too fast there isn’t enough motion blur to smoothly transition from frame to frame causing a stuttering or staccato effect. If you have ever looked at something moving with a CRT monitor behind it you will know what this stuttering can look like. Sometimes, this can be used for creative effect like in the opening of Saving Private Ryan.

To see how this looks in actual video, I did this quick comparison of 24p video shot at both 1/50th (yes, I know 1/48 is double the 24fps but most cameras can’t do 1/48th shutter speed so we have to take the closest option which would be 1/50th) and 1/300th shutter speed.

What about exposure?

The issue with exposure is not when things are too dark as we can open up our aperture and increase our ISO (only to a certain point before we need additional lighting anyway) but when things are too bright, we only have a few options. If you are already at a small aperture and a low ISO and 1/50th of a second will result in an over exposure the temptation is to increase the shutter speed, but this is going to violate the 180 degree rule and cause the stuttering video.

The only way to knock the exposure down is with the use of a neutral density filter. The most versatile filter is a variable neutral density filter that allows you to dial in the amount of filtering. A good example of this is the Fader ND Mark II which is adjustable from 2 to 8 stops.

The real beauty of using a filter with this much versatility is that you can shoot at the relatively slow 1/50th of a second at wide open apertures to create a very short depth of field that just isn’t possible with regular camcorders. The ability easily create different depth of field shots  is a key reason many filmmakers are jumping onto the DSLR video bandwagon.

The Exception to the Rule

Let’s face it, every good rule deserves a good reason to break it and the 180 degree shutter rule is no different. In fact, there is one really good reason to break it and that is when you are specifically shooting for video that will be shown in slow motion. If we use the basic rule of having a shutter speed that is double the frame rate, when we slow down the video we will end up with more blurry video. If you shoot at faster shutter speeds, when you slow the video down you will get cleaner looking video.

This actually brings up a major difference between shooting stills and video. With stills, our final output will be a still frame. Sure, you may use some panning and zooming in a slidehsow which may require cropping that isn’t very tight but lets not digress too much. With video, you really need to think ahead about how the video will be played back. Will the video be sped up, played at normal speed, or slowed down as this final product needs to be considered when choosing the shooting settings.

Summary

Hopefully this has helped make some sense out of the shutter speed issue with DSLRs. If you are just going to be shooting video for yourself, you may not care much about all this but if you are trying to really make your video look its absolute best, and most certainly you can achieve incredible results with the current video enabled DSLR’s, then this is one of those topics that you really need to get a handle on.

Differences between camcorders and DSLRs

Many of you are probably own some kind of camcorder. These small, handheld video cameras are actually pretty amazing for their price with 1080p video for under $700. If these little wonders are so good, why do we even need DSLR video? For one thing, the sensors in the consumer camcorders are relatively small and the have a single lens with a fixed focal length. This doesn’t allow much in terms of creative shooting like being able to blur a background. Most don’t even let you select a focus point and they try to guess what you want. Are they REALLY 1080p video, well yes, technically speaking but they are not “broadcast quality” images. Just because something puts out video out 1920×1080 resolution does not mean the image quality is going to be that great.

On the opposite end of the spectrum are DSLR’s that can shoot video. In comparison to high-end, dedicated video cameras, DSLR’s can actually have a BETTER image because the sensor size in a DSLR is larger than in a video camera and the ability to use many different lenses allows for very creative shooting.

The big downside is that most (and this IS changing) current video-DSLRs do not have full-time autofocus. This can be a huge challenge for many people who have come to rely on autofocus for their still photography. Add to this moving subjects and trying to adjust focus on-the-fly, and you can be in for a very challenging shoot. Also take into consideration that the ergonomics of a DSLR are not really suited for shooting video so trying to hand-hold a DSLR while shooting is almost certain to add unwanted shaking or movement. One of the other things to consider is going to be accessories to help you shoot video better (more on this below) which may include a tripod with a fluid head, a good microphone, a stabilization system, viewfinder enhancements, constant lights, and software to do the editing. If you go “all in” you can easily spend more on video accessories than you did on the camera body.

Getting Started

I am going to start with assuming most people are going to be shooting video that is not destined for broadcast TV or movie theaters but in future articles we will get into fine tuning our video and camera settings for those applications. For now, we will start with the basics just to get things going.

Equipment

Depending on what you are shooting, you may or may not need all of the things mentioned here and I will try to point out when and where different pieces will be used.

Tripod and Fluid Head

While you probably own a tripod, the head on it is likely not smooth enough for video. As you tilt and pan, it is very hard to get a real smooth motion. For video, you want was is referred to as a fluid head which will really make a huge difference in controlling your camera for video. If you have a tripod with a removable head, you can just buy a head made for video and use it when needed. Good fluid heads can cost hundreds of dollars but a fairly decent one such as the Weifeng WF-717AH can be found for around $70.

Monopod

A monopod can really be a lifesaver when it comes to video since it can help you steady your camera instead of trying to hold it still for extended periods of time. Another little trick is to put the bottom of the monopod into your belt or pocket and extend the monopod so the camera is eye level, this technique can help you get really smooth pans but is going to be fairly bouncy when walking. For this purpose, you can find a cheap monopod at Walmart for about $15.

Batteries

If your camera supports an add-on battery pack, I would highly recommend you get one and some extra batteries. Running your camera for extended periods (which means the LCD is on as well) can suck the life right out of your batteries before you know it.

Microphone

As you can probably guess, the on-board microphones on DSLR’s are not going to give you superb 5.1 Dolby stereo audio. In fact, its fairly poor mono audio and with no windscreen in front of it, you can pick up a lot of noise. A fairly popular microphone is the Rode VideoMic which runs about $149. I happened to have a Zoom H4 recorder which not only has two mics for recording in stereo but also has two XLR connectors so it is extremely versatile. I just needed a $2 audio patch cable and a hot shoe adapter. Of course, if you aren’t planning on recording video and always plan on just having a music soundtrack, then you really aren’t going to need a microphone.

Lights

If you have a bag full of 580 EX II’s, they aren’t going to do you any good when shooting video, you will need a constant source of light. While certainly I am a big fan of big LED light banks like Ikan’s, they are outside my budget. With a couple of small lights like the YN160 you can get generally decent lighting for about $75.

The YN160 can be mounted on-camera or on a light stand and can use seven different types of batteries including regular AA cells.

Software

This is where things can get crazy real fast. While you may find lot of people suggestion that you can use Windows Movie Maker, the video files directly from the 7D and the 5DMkII are NOT compatible with Windows Movie Maker. There are tools to convert the files but now you are getting into a real headache. If you have any software suggestions, please post them in the comments as I would love to hear about them.

I am going to do my best to offer up some suggestions here based on different price points:

Free Software

• iMovie (Mac)
  This is USUALLY free as it is bundled with most Macintosh systems (as far as I know)
• Lightworks (Windows)
  Lightworks is an open source editor that is actually quite powerful but is somewhat lacking in documentation and tutorials

Consumer Grade

• Adobe Premiere Elements 9 ($99 for Mac/Windows)
  Probably one of the better mid-range tools available and at a reasonable price
• Sony Vegas Movie Studio HD ($95 for Windows)
  Vegas is an extremely popular editing program with a very nice feature set

Pro Grade

• Adobe Premiere Pro CS5 ($179 for Mac/Windows)
  My personal choice as I work on a high-end Alienware Windows 7 machine
• Final Cut Pro ($300 for Mac)
  FCP and Premiere usually take turns beating out each other on features. With Final Cut Pro X, I think it takes the lead.

Summary

Hopefully this wasn’t too much to start off with and I really want to hear from you and find out if you are interested in more articles about DSLR video. I will leave you with this little video I did as my first video project with a Canon EOS 7D.

We have 5 pairs of tickets for the July 24th screening. If there is a screening in your area, post to the comments below with the city you are able to go to and on Friday at noon we will draw our winners.

On July 24, 2011, Life in a Day will continue its journey when it premieres in theaters across the U.S. Additional screenings will be added July 29.

Locations and tickets: http://lifeinaday.cinedigm.com/tickets.html

Visit the LIFE IN A DAY channel at http://youtube.com/lifeinaday

Official Life In A Day Facebook: http://facebook.com/lifeinaday

Along with this, a photo contest will be launched in a couple of days based on the theme “A day in your life” so get your brain cells warmed up and start thinking about how you can get this shot.

IMG_2058	IMG_2059
IMG_2080	IMG_2082RV
3I8O3658	3I8O3711
IMG_5385	IMG_4844RV
30	IMG_4326RV
IMG_2031C	IMG_2031RV
IMG_0208	IMG_0209
IMG_0209RV

Be sure and check out Roberto’s website at: http://www.robertovalenzuelaphotography.com
Follow Roberto on twitter at @robertophoto

Show Host: Kerry Garrison

“But Kerry…those triggers are listed on your shopping site at $64.95, so what do you mean $15?”

If you read the description of the triggers, you also get a $50 gift certificate for new members at Nations Photo Lab. If you factor in the $50 in prints, that brings the price of the triggers down to only $14.95!

Are they any good?

Of course I am going to tell you they are great! I use them on a daily basis for everything from products to weddings. Chris Diset has been using them on every shoot for months along with numerous other professionals.

But, if you want a really unbiased opinion of them, turn to one of the biggest names in the industry, David Ziser. In a recent Technique Tuesday, David talked about affordable off-camera lighting and not only mentioned our flash triggers, but did a complete video on how to use them. I never asked him to do a video on them, in fact, I was completely shocked that he took the time to not only try them out, but to use them at a recent wedding event.

Check out the video David did:

Trigger Happy Budget Flashes from David Ziser

So take it from a lighting master, the Blackbelt Wireless Triggers from Cameradojo.com not only work, but they can really allow you to use creative lighting, and on a budget. And don’t forget about the $50 gift certificate to Nations Photo Lab!

Check out these and other products in the BlackBelt Store.

There were five speedlites used on this setup with a mix of 580 EX, 580 EX II, and YN560′s all fired with Pocketwizard FlexTT5′s. To get the signs on the top light with minimal spill, they left and center one were fitted with Harbor Digital Quick Spots and the one on the right was fitted with a large Rouge Flashbender if a half roll to act as part snoot but also to spill some light on the side of the building. Two more speedlights were on the ground pointed inwards to light the area under roof area.

Lighting Setup

While we tried to use a longer exposure to try to pull in the stars, the problem was that too much shutter and we were getting light contamination from nearby street lights. All of the flashes were set to 1/4 power and the three pointing at the signs were also zoomed to 105mm while the ground lights were zoomed to 24mm.

24mm - ISO 400 – 1/13 - f/3.2

For more information about this image and to see the rest of the Photo Project 24 images, please visit http://photoproject24.com

This is one of those times when things just didn’t work right immediately. We tried to get some star trails…didn’t look good. We tried to light paint the hill behind us, didn’t work. We tried to get headlight trails from the road, but it was so dark you couldn’t see the road. So…time to light the bushes around us. We tried front lighting, side lighting, gels, and nothing was coming together. We then came up with the idea to backlight it and see what we would get.

We mounted a speedlite on a lightstand about 30 feet away with a PocketWizard TT5 and set it on about 1/4 power.   The shutter was at 1/40th but since it was so dark you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face, the shutter speed was meaning less. The backlighting came through the shrubs nicely and reflected off the snow which then light the underside and even the front of the bushes somewhat. We both looked at the image and thought it was finally a pretty cool shot and off we went to the next location.

24mm - ISO 400 – 1/40 - f/3.2

Lighting Setup

To read more about this and other images from the Photo Project 24 adventure, please visit http://photoproject24.com

Some Kind of Bovine - 1/250th - f/4 - ISO 50 - 200mm

Outside of Blythe it was time to take another shot when we tried to get off the road to shoot some wrecked cars. Unfortunately we couldn’t get to the vehicles but the road ended at this small cow stable. In order to make it look bigger than it was, we decided to use a short depth of field by using a wider aperture and a long lens to maximize the effect.

For the complete story about the image, check out the post at:
http://photoproject24.com/2011/01/photo-5-some-kind-of-bovine/

For more information about this shot and the interesting location where it was shot, please check out the complete story at:
http://photoproject24.com/2011/01/photo-3-tilapia-trailer-at-the-salton-sea/

With each image there is a story about the shot, sometimes with interesting information about the location, lighting diagrams, and much more. Each day a different image will be posted. Today’s image, Dinosaur in Cabazon was lit using a video light and a long exposure. For a more detailed explanation and lighting diagram, check it out at:
http://photoproject24.com/2011/01/photo-1-dinosaur-in-cabazon/

Photo Project 24 Image #1 - Dinosaur in Cabazon

What is a Photo Book

Put simply, a photo book is a printed book of images bound together in some way. Nations Photo Lab offers sizes from 5”x7” to 11”x14 with a few unique features. First off, NPL actually sews their bindings instead of the more common “glue and press” technique. Along with the stitched bindings, NPL also uses acid-free covers and papers to maintain true archival quality. Along with the different sizes, there are also four different types of covers in a handful of colors. Along with the cover options, the following options are also available:

• Custom photo covers
• Imprinting
• UV Coating
• 6-Color printing
• Color Corrections
• Lay-Flat bindings

Putting Your Photobook Together

Nations Photo Lab has a tool called ROES to help you design your pages. With simple drag and drop controls and the ability to choose any of the available options, ROES is a complete design and ordering tool. While ROES may suffice for many users, if you want more complicated designs you can design them in a tool like Photoshop and then just import the finished graphic to place on the page.

ROES comes as a Java applet for your web browser which makes it a popular, cross-platform ordering solution for both amateur and professional photographers. Most printing companies have their own customized version of the software for you to install on your computer that allows you to design your layouts, add photos, and even address fulfillment.

What Is The Finished Book Like

I am quite pleased with the finished product and because I used a good selection of my sample images, I can use the finished book as a portfolio piece. For my photobook, I got the 11×14 book with linen paper and a canvas photo cover. This has a base price of $99 for 20 sides. I added for more sides at $2.20 per side so my total was $107.80. The canvas cover is very vibrant and really makes for a great first impression. The large size is quite impressive as well although its too tall to fit on most bookshelves. I suspect the most common sizes will be 10”x10”, 8”x8”,  or 8.5”x11”. I personally am a big fan of the square formats so my next book will likely be a 10”x10” book and I expect to sell these to customers pretty easily since its quite a bit cheaper than the much more expensive wedding albums I have typically been selling.

Are Photobooks For You?

It really depends on what you want to do with your images. While simple 5”x7” prints are the most common print sizes these days, there is something special about having them done up nicely into a book that will last for many, many years. For those extra special events such as graduations, weddings, special birthdays, etc., having those memories easily accessible and in a format that is simple to handle can really mean the difference between pictures that are stored in shoeboxes in the closet and ones that are actually viewed over and over again.

For more information on Nations Photo Lab’s Photobooks, go visit:
http://www.nationsphotolab.com/photobooks.htm

Amazon Links

Business and Legal Forms for Photographers

Starting Your Career as a Freelance Photographer

Call in to leave a question for future shows at (888) 436-8647

Show Host

Kerry Garrison

http://kerrygarrison.com Twitter Facebook FriendFeed

This podcast is also available on iTunes.

• WPPI – http://www.wppionline.com
• ExpoAperture Discs – http://www.expoimaging.com
• DOFMaster.com – http://dofmaster.com
• Digital Pro Talk – http://digitalprotalk.com
• Digital Wakeup Call: http://digitalwakeupcall.com/
• David’s book
  • Captured by the Light: The Essential Guide to Creating Extraordinary Wedding Photography
  • $34.94 – Available on Amazon.com

Show Host

Kerry Garrison
http://kerrygarrison.com Twitter Facebook FriendFeed

This podcast is also available on iTunes.

Jim provides some good insight into current purchasing trends that Pictage is seeing and talks about how to incorporate this information into your business.

Jim also discusses some of the changes going on with Pictage and the upcoming Pictage PartnerCon.

Pictage: http://pictage.com

PartnerCon: http://pro.pictage.com/community/ppc/neworleans/

Show Host

Kerry Garrison
http://kerrygarrison.com Twitter Facebook FriendFeed

This podcast is also available on iTunes.

Chase’s Links:

Chase on Twitter / Facebook

Chase Jarvis website: http://chasejarvis.com

The Best Camera: http://thebestcamera.com

The Best Camera Is The One That’s With You: iPhone Photography by Chase Jarvis (on Amazon)

Songs for Eating and Drinking: http://www.songsforeatinganddrinking.com

Show Host

Kerry Garrison
http://kerrygarrison.com Twitter Facebook FriendFeed

This podcast is also available on iTunes.

Aaron Dieppa’s Website: http://www.aarondieppa.com

Show Hosts

Kerry Garrison
http://kerrygarrison.com
Twitter Facebook FriendFeed

David Esquire
http://esquirephotography.com
Twitter Facebook

This podcast is also available on iTunes.

Some of the tools and software mentioned on the show:

Things for Macintosh
http://culturedcode.com/things/

OmniFocus for Macintosh
http://www.omnigroup.com/applications/omnifocus/

Book: Getting Things Done: The Art of Stress-Free Productivity (Amazon Link)

Book: Total Workday Control Using Microsogt Outlook Amazon Link)

Show Hosts

Kerry Garrison
http://kerrygarrison.com
Twitter: http://twitter.com/kerrygarrison Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/garrisonphotography

David Esquire
http://esquirephotography.com
Twitter: http://twitter.com/esquirephoto Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/davidesquire

This podcast is also available on iTunes.

It all adds up

If the visual references isn’t quite enough, then another way to think about it is to think of a perfect exposure as the combination of the right proportion of ingredients made up of ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture setting. If a perfect exposure = 9, and you have equal parts of Shutter, ISO, and Aperture, then you have a good mix (3+3+3 = 9). If you need to adjust one of the ingredients, then you have to adjust one of the others to come up with the same final number (2+4+3=9), subract from one, you have to add to another to make up the difference. If you have too much of one, without substracting from another, you end up with an overexposed image. Conversly, if you take away from one but don’t add another, you end up with an underexposed image.

The Sunny 16 Example

In a previous article we looked at the sunny 16 rule, this states that on a bright sunny day, a perfect exposure should be f/16, ISO 200, 1/200th of a second. (ISO and shutter are the reciprocal of each other). If we wanted a shallower depth of field and wanted a larger aperture like f/2.8, then since f/2.8 is 5 stops brighter than f/16, we would then need to compensate with either a lower ISO or a faster shutter. Increasing the shutter is the easiest in this example then we need 5 stops of shutter giving us a speed of 1/6400th of a second.

Low Light Adjustments

In low light we have the opposite issue, trying to get enough light into the camera. We only go so slow before we run into blurring issues with slow shutter speeds, and the aperture limit is going to be based on the lens we are using. If we still don’t have a bright enough exposure then we have to compensate by increasing the ISO speed.

Bringing it all together

While each setting can have an effect on the overall image quality, the sum of the three effect the overall exposure. For a refresher on the other settings, be sure and go back through these previous articles:

• Beginner’s Guide to Aperture
• Controlling Exposure
• The Sunny 16 Rule in Photography
• Capturing movement with shutter speed
• Understanding Depth of Field

Author: Kerry Garrison